“Yes sir, how may I help you?”
Robert fidgeted. He didn’t know what to say.
The ticket clerk waited, eyebrows raised expectantly.
Several minutes passed and the people queuing behind Robert grew a little restless.
The ticket clerk’s eyebrows rose even further. He asked again, “How may I help you sir?”
“Nothing, it doesn’t matter,” Robert blurted and dashed away. Normality resumed, with the queue inching forwards as the clerk dispensed tickets.
Robert hovered, clutching his briefcase. Voices echoed through the palatial railway station. And most of all, there was the sound of steam trains. They couldn’t be seen but they could certainly be heard: boom hiss, boom hiss, boom hiss. Periodically, clouds of smoke billowed up to the station’s capacious glass ceiling.
Robert was annoyed with himself. He’d been planning this for weeks, anticipating the great adventure: his first train trip.
With a stoic straightening of the shoulders he rejoined the queue and several minutes later was once again standing in front of the ticket office.
“How may I help you sir?” The clerk asked. He was a little balding man with a pencil behind his ear and ink stained fingers. The watch chain hanging from the pocket of his waist coat glinted. Behind him, next to a portrait of Queen Victoria, the big station clock ticked the minutes by. It was 11.40 precisely.
The ticket clerk’s small beady eyes peered up at Robert from behind the lenses of his spectacles. But it was not an unfriendly look, indeed there was a twinkle in his eyes.
“I want to go somewhere,” said Robert, “on the train.”
“I see, and where did you have in mind sir?”
“Well, where does the train go?”
The clerk gave a small sigh. He took the pencil from behind his ear and held it between his chubby fingers. “There are many trains that go to many places,” he explained.
Robert thought about this. “Well …. I want to visit the seaside.”
“Aah,” the clerk said portentously. They were making progress. “You would like a ticket to Shields-by-the-Sea. Will that be single or a return?”
“Oh I’m single,” Robert said, “I just need the one ticket, thank you.”
“No sir,” the clerk said patiently, “will you be desiring to return today?”
“Oh I see,” said Robert. “Well yes, I have to go to work tomorrow.”
“Indeed so sir,” intoned the clerk. He licked his fingers and leafed through his pad of inky tickets. The enormity of the moment washed over Robert and he felt sure he would faint. He ran his finger around the inside of his stiff, white, starched collar.
The clerk wrote on the ticket, pencil scratching. The station clock ticked. The clerk peeled the ticket from the book with a flourish and Robert handed his fare over.
With the twinkle still in his little friendly eyes, the clerk said, “Enjoy your journey sir.”
Robert, a bag of nerves, nodded. He dropped his ticket as he picked up his briefcase and then dropping the case as he picked up his ticket.
Blushing, he gathered up his worldly belongings. “Thank you,” he said to the clerk who inclined his head.
Robert showed his ticket to the man at the barrier …. and was admitted to the railway station’s inner sanctum.
Robert could scarcely believe it. His head swam. He had never seen so many people from all the social classes in one place together, though they were not actually quite together.
To one side were gathered the ladies and gentlemen of the Upper Orders, a great number of top hats and fine frock coats, walking canes and clouds of cigar smoke. The ladies wore capes of fur over long silky skirts, bustles swishing as they moved. Wearing delicate white gloves, they fanned their faces. Robert gazed at a sea of summery bonnets and parasols.
The Middle Class passengers waited, logically thought Robert, in the middle of the station, a crowd of men under bowler hats and ladies wearing crinoline dresses and petticoats.
The working class passengers were crowded into the far corner. Not much evidence of cigars and top hats there, Robert observed. The women wore shawls over coarse, rather shapeless dresses, the men cloth caps and open neck, collarless shirts.
Voices echoed, children ran about, dogs barked and a young man ushered chickens back to the menagerie of animals a farmer had with him. This included two goats and a cat.
Robert joined his middle class brethren, nervously. Sweat matted his fair hair to his brow. His heart pounded.
Presently, a train guard came striding along the platform. There was a murmur of expectancy from the passengers. Several more minutes passed. The chickens were still running around the platform and a goat was nibbling the hem of a lady’s dress.
And then a new sound could be discerned. Goose pimples swept Robert’s arms.
He could hear a steam train – and it was getting nearer and louder, boom and hiss, boom and hiss, boom and hiss.
People began picking up cases and bags. The farm lad stopped the goat from trying to eat the lady’s dress.
The steam locomotive, pulling three carriages in the livery of the North-Eastern Railway, came pounding into the station, smoke pumping from its long ornate funnel. Gold patterning shone through billowing smoke and steam. The carriage livery was a crimson edged with gold. This was the 12.01 from Newcastle-upon-Tyne to Shields-by-the-Sea.
Robert’s mouth dropped open. His sensations had never witnessed such an effect – especially the noise. He dropped the suitcase and planted his hands over his ears. The train came to a shuddering halt. Steam rose from the panting engine. Doors opened and people spilled out.
The guard waved a flag. The driver and fireman leant out of the engine and watched the passengers disembark.
The new passengers picked up their luggage and moved towards the train. Robert did not have the faintest idea of where to go. On the first carriage was inscribed the dedication First Class. The next carriage was Second Class and the third was an open top wagon, clearly designated for the Working Classes.
The interior of the First Class carriage looked very fine indeed, with upholstered chairs, table cloths, gas lights and window blinds. Robert stared down at his ticket, struggling to assimilate all the information it contained.
Then the guard was at his side and after a quick glance at the ticket said, “Second Class, Coach B, sir.”
“Oh, thank you,” said Robert and clambered onboard. The interior did not have the fine fixtures of First Class. There was a long wooden bench on either side of the carriage but at least it was closed to the elements. Robert found a place by the window.
Several tumultuous minutes went by, with the train and the platform a babble of activity. The carriage filled up, with people standing as well as sitting. Finally, the guard blew his whistle and the carriage doors were shut.
The train jolted then moved. The station platform glided past as the train picked up speed, hissing and steaming, steaming and hissing, rattling and clanking.
The sunshine, the swaying of the carriages, all had a hypnotic effect on Robert. He gradually relaxed until finally his case was rested on his knees and his hands lay on top of the case.
He looked out of the window, at the great conurbation that was the city sliding past, becoming the middle class suburbs and then outlying farms. Suddenly, Robert had travelled further than he had ever done so before in his entire life.
The other passengers who were used to train trips dozed or read but Robert was transfixed by the unknown land through which the train sped at a mind boggling 35 mph.
Robert took his fob watch from his waistcoat pocket and clicked it open: 12.09. It was 10 miles to Shields-by-the-Sea. Robert calculated that the train would cover that distance in around 20 minutes.
It hardly seemed like five minutes because Robert sat, transfixed, looking out of the window at the farms and the lanes, the men and the horses working the land.
He sat forwards as a new marvel came into view. He had read about it in books, had talked to people who claimed to have seen it.
Was that, Robert wondered in amazement ….. was that the sea?
He gawped and stared, quite overwhelmed by this vision. It was the sea! And beaches too! Sand dunes rose on either side of the train, gleaming and golden.
The train steamed past a sign that declared Shields-by-the-Sea. Seized by excitement and nerves, Robert stood.
The train jolted and slowed. A station platform slid into view. The train shuddered to a stop. A guard opened the door and the disembarking passengers stepped down onto the platform, the guard tilting his hat and murmuring, “Sir. Ma’am.”
Robert stood on the platform. He watched the carriage doors being closed and the guard striding up and down. He blew his whistle and waved his flag and the train inched forwards, picking up speed.
The noise lingered in the air for a long time after the train could no longer be seen. After consulting the timetable on the wall Robert wandered out of the station and along a cobbled street. This led through the fishing village of Shields-by-the-Sea.
Robert knew of the place, had read about it, he’d even talked to people who had visited it but the little fishing village was a good 10 miles from the city. It was a foreign land.
The briefcase bumped against Robert’s leg as he walked past medieval houses. The young man felt as though he had travelled back in time to Shakespeare’s England. The technological wonders of the 19th Century had yet to arrive here.
And then, there was the beach. When Robert saw the sand under his shoes he scrambled away from it. Was sand corrosive? He wondered.
He looked about him. There was no one on hand who could offer advice. Robert knelt down and unlaced his shoes and removed them – and his socks – which he tucked into the shoes. Then the thought struck him, what if sand could corrode his bare feet?
He applied some logic to the matter. Why, if sand was dangerous the Government would do something about it! People wouldn’t be allowed to walk on the beaches!
Robert, tucking his shoes under his arm, raised his bare right foot and stepped forward. His foot landed on the sand. Nothing catastrophic occurred. Indeed, the sensation of sand on his sole felt distinctly pleasant.
The young man cautiously presented his left foot to the beach. Again, nothing horrible happened. He began walking, to the sea. A mellifluous blend of sounds affected his sensations with a desirable outcome. Robert was relaxed.
He consulted his fob watch: 12.45. The return train was at 3.30. He had plenty of time.
He walked to the water’s edge and experienced the most curious phenomena. He stared down at the sand. His feet were wet! He observed with scientific fascination as they sank into the glistening sand.
Robert was ill prepared however for happened next. A wave rolled ashore and between his toes. The young man got such a shock he turned and ran but didn’t get very far because he tripped and fell over his briefcase.
Rather gingerly, Robert sat up. “Well that was foolish,” he told himself. “How would science advance with such timidity?” He brushed the sand off his clothes and stood up. Then he walked back down to the sea. And put his bare foot into the water. “See,” he thought, “quite harmless. Cold yes but no other disadvantage suffered.”
Robert walked along the shoreline, his senses regaled by a tide of new experiences.
Finally, he came to an outcrop of rock and climbed up onto it and sat down. He opened his briefcase and took out his sandwich and a napkin. He spread the napkin on his knees and whilst eating the sandwich gazed across a sparkling sea to sailing ships on the horizon.
Having finished his lunch, Robert lay back and gazed up at the cloudless sky and after a while fell asleep. He dreamt of the steam train and the chickens racing around the platform and the sunlight shimmering like stars on the sea and the ticket clerk’s voice, “How can I help you sir?” Over and over. And then the voice was getting louder and it wasn’t a man but a woman, “Are you alright?”
Robert opened his eyes. A young lady was standing over him, a look of concern on her face. Robert scrambled to his feet. “Oh. Yes. I’m fine, thank you, fell asleep after my exertions. Walked along the beach.”
“Oh, it’s glorious,” said the young lady. She shaded her eyes and gazed out to sea.
“Do you live here?” Robert asked, noting the basket of flowers the woman carried.
“Aye, in Shields-by-the-Sea.”
The two looked at each other, a little uncertainly. Then the woman offered her hand in greeting, “I’m Rebecca.”
“Robert,” said Robert, shaking her hand. “Rather sandy.”
They smiled and walked along the cliff towards the village. Rebecca explained that she was a teacher at the elementary school.
“Oh really? I’m a librarian, in the city. I’ve been planning my expedition to the seaside for a long time.”
“On the train?”
“Yes indeed. Have you ever been – on a train?”
“Oh no,” the young lady looked at Robert. He noted how her blue eyes danced with light. She had a strong face he thought and a very direct gaze. “I don’t think it’s safe,” she added earnestly. “The human body is not designed for such velocity.”
“Well I’ve survived. And there were people on the train who use it all the time and they didn’t look … squashed.”
Rebecca thought about this. She nodded thoughtfully. After this slightly awkward moment their conversation was relaxed, easy, as they strolled into the village. Robert told her about the lectures he had attended at the Literary and Philosophical Society in Newcastle, about how he had even had a telephone installed at home and could ring some of his friends. Rebecca was astounded by this.
When he told her about the potential of electric lighting, expounded by William Armstrong one evening at a packed Lit and Phil, Rebecca could only shake her head in wonder at such marvels.
“Would you like an ice cream?” Robert asked when they reached the little cobbled street, the Elizabethan houses leaning overhead, their ancient, black wooden timber at odds with the new age of science, of telephones and tram rails – and trains.
Rebecca smiled. “That would be nice, thank you.”
Robert went into the shop, having to duck under the doorway. The interior was a clutter of baskets and lobster pots, bric-a-brac and glass jars full of sweets. There were chairs and tables, stools and chests that must have been a hundred years old at least, thought Robert.
He walked up to the counter, on which sat the great, ornate till. An elderly lady came out of an inner room. She was rather severe looking, dressed all in black, with boots that clicked loudly on the wooden floor. Even her hair was black, drawn back into a tight efficient bun.
“Er, may I order two ice creams please?” Robert asked.
A brilliant smile spread over the old woman’s hawk like face. “Whey aye hinny!”
Rebecca and Robert walked down the high street, past the shops and the public houses, eating their ice creams. And then, with a sudden twinge, Robert realised that his train was due. It was nearly time to part company with Rebecca.
She was studying the outer façade of the railway station. “I’ve heard of Newcastle,” she said. “But it’s 10 miles away.”
“It’s a long way,” Robert agreed. “But you should visit, on the train.”
The young lady considered this. “We’ll see. Will you be revisiting Shields-by the-Sea? I go walking along the cliff top or on the beach every Sunday.”
She’s a bit forward, thought Robert, a little taken aback. But after all, these were modern times!
“Yes, sounds good,” Robert said. Then he had an inspired idea. “I’ll send a telegram, from the city Post Office to the one here, to let you know when I’ll next be visiting.”
Rebecca nodded with enthusiasm. “I’ve seen Miss Thomas in our little Post Office use the telegram machine. What an age of wonder we live in.”
“Oh indeed.”
Robert and Rebecca shook hands. The young lady walked off down the street, looking back over her shoulder at Robert and smiling.
And then the steam locomotive came clanking and hissing into the station and there was once again the magical experience of a train journey.
Robert was already planning his next journey to Shields-by-the-Sea – the following Sunday.